Fashionistas and chemists might seem like unlikely companions, but then again, both have been known to appreciate a good coat. Exploring the overlap between science and style, Swedish fashion brand Acne Studios recently worked with Stockholm design studio Halleroed to reimagine a former 1930s laboratory as its new Paris showroom. 

Up until the 1980s, the space had been used to produce the medicinal oil Gomenol, a staple of French pharmacies. Granted, the lab is just one small part of the four-storey complex that Acne has moved into in the 10th arrondissement. The rest of the property is taken up by an 18th century hôtel particulier (a distinctly French form of urban townhouse); the lab was added on back when the house was home to the Prevet family, which led Gomenol’s production. And contrary to this industrial amenity, the rest of the home feels stately and ornate.

This contrast posed an especially compelling dichotomy for Acne, which is known for bringing edgy, subversive energy to the elegant fashion world. In turn, Halleroed let that dynamic guide its interventions throughout each floor. Even rooms that largely honour their original interiors — defined by ornamental moldings and gold trim — embrace clean-lined contemporary furniture by Lukas Gschwandtner as a way to introduce some tension.

The corporate HQ portion of the building consolidates a variety of satellite offices that had previously been spread across Paris. The hope was to create a more on-brand home base that would leave Acne’s designers appropriately inspired, but not overwhelmed by too much experimental attitude. Take the reception hall for instance. Clad in mirrored panels, it offers a funhouse-style experience that immediately establishes the overall design’s playful spirit — but it still adheres to a clear sense of rigour and discipline, too.

Meanwhile, shoppers will find plenty to admire in the building’s lab-turned-showroom. Apart from the clothing on offer, the space’s main attraction is its spectacular arched glass-brick ceiling, which is complemented by a raw concrete shell. That said, Halleroed has covered some of the walls in smooth white plaster, again to introduce a hit of clean modern design. Mirrored paneling wrapped around several columns establishes a connection back to the entrance area and creates a sense of cohesion with the mansion portion of the project.

Otherwise, the shop is filled with a selection of intriguing custom furniture. Sculptural sofas by Max Lamb feature vinyl upholstery that is bunched and crumpled over top of a steel frame. Pink shelving, also by Lamb, is a reference to one of Acne’s signature colours. (After playing a pivotal role in the genesis of “millennial pink,” the brand celebrated its 10-year anniversary with an all-pink set back in fall 2022.)

Beyond being a showcase for Acne’s fashion, the building is also a way to highlight the house’s broad network of creative collaborators. Along with Lamb, the project also incorporates sculptures by Daniel Silver and Sylvie Macmillan, whose candelabras appeared in a past Acne runway set.

Another employee area, a basement canteen builds on the “raw” identity of the project by introducing another colour: an inky blue inspired by raw denim. Complementary curtains feature a messy, graffiti-style take on Piet Mondrian’s grids — yet another way to experiment with the tension between the rough and refined.