Up close, the imposing and seemingly cold quality of board-formed concrete can give way to an entirely different ambiance. In the hands of skilled designers, the texture and patina of cement and aggregate can take on a feeling of warmth and intimacy. At the base of an apartment complex in the northern Chinese city of Taiyuan, Beijing-based firm JSPA Design has crafted a moody and dramatic character, creating a welcoming whisky bar out of a seemingly austere kit of parts.

Facing a prominent commercial street, the 664-square-metre interior replaces a trio of small former retail units. While three discrete frontages have been retained — preserving the structural columns between them — the streetscape is unified by a pared-down trio of concrete arches introduced by JSPA Design. Along the exterior, the designers began by stripping back the cladding to reveal the raw structure, while introducing a series of arches along the second storey.

Inside, the language of concrete and curves is amplified into a bold aesthetic signature. On the ground floor, a marquee curved ceiling frames the central bar, almost meeting the concrete counter to underscore a sense of material and formal unity. While the bend of the concrete ceiling draws the eye all the way to the floor, the elegantly narrow band of the bar combines dark brick with sensuously warm lighting, which lends the bottles on display a sparkling quality.

The rich, warm lighting is paired with notes of bronze and gold across the interior, including the furnishings and light fixtures. Throughout, ambient lighting amplifies the textures of the raw board-formed concrete and brick, as well as the sleeker notes of wood and brass.

Upstairs, a slightly larger second floor is divided into a series of rooms, ranging from dramatic lounges — under another rounded concrete ceiling — to smaller spaces for private parties. The dark spiral stair that connects the two floors is a highlight in its own right.

Above, the upper story features additional highlights including a backlight whisky gallery and a full-wall brass fireplace. In a less assured design, such features might come off as kitschy or indulgent. Fortunately, JSPA Design pairs opulence with restraint, and roughness with smoothness. Like a fine dram, it packs a punch but it goes down easy.